I visited one of the world’s best cities where visas have been scrapped – with £1.80 snacks and mega theme parks

I’M standing next to a giant cackling Labubu dressed in pirate gear – a clear sign I’m in the year 2026.

But just a few hours earlier, I’d been exploring a 500-year-old Ming Dynasty garden, which looked straight out of yesteryear.

That’s Shanghai in a nutshell — a world of the crazy and modern, blended with an insanely rich history.

And there’s never been a better time to visit China’s biggest city.
Visas to visit the country, which usually involve an arduous and expensive process to obtain, have been scrapped until the end of the year.

And Shanghai has been listed as a trending destination, having been named the world’s second best city for 2026 by Time Out and having seen a boom in searches with booking.com.

It is nicknamed the Magic City, and I was under its spell in a heartbeat.

Until the mid-1800s, Shanghai was a mere fishing village, far from its megacity status, now with a population of 25million. One of the city’s most beautiful corners is the former French Concession, once a self-governing enclave dating back to 1849.

Today it is made up of narrow roads, where both European and Chinese mingle, and is lined with plane trees offering shade to the many cyclists.

It’s littered with excellent shops and bakeries, too.

My favourite spot was Faust, where I drank my sea salt latte perched on a tiny metal stool next to locals catching up with each other before going to work for the day.

You’ll find selfie-taking tourists at Wukang Mansion, a wedge-like structure reminiscent of New York’s Flatiron Building that was loved by Chinese stars of the 1940s.

Nearby, you can grab some locally made jewellery and clothes at the small boutiques selling wares out of even smaller windows.

The laid-back nature of the streets was nothing like I had expected of Shanghai.

That peace and quiet was also found at Qibao, a 1,000-year-old ancient water town.

After a short metro ride from the city centre, I stepped back in time as I meandered down the narrow paths separating the historic street vendor stores.

Everything from silk fans and traditional dress to fresh food was on offer.

Food sellers casually offer passers-by a taste, but my stomach was more drawn to the city centre.

My mission was to brave the honking mopeds and elbow-jabbing tourists to find some of the world’s best food. And I think I succeeded.

I gorged on soup dumplings from Lai Lai Xiao Long Bao, a Michelin-recommended Bib Gourmand shop, with juicy crab and prawn oozing down my arm as I bit into them.

I spent a mere £1.80 on a Guide pancake from Dingxing Road, packed with chicken and fried dough.

And the famous £3 sesame paste noodles from Wei Xiang Zhai, also in the Michelin Guide, are definitely worth the queue you will likely find snaking out of the door.

The bright orange oily sauce was decadent and rich and left my stomach full (and my white T-shirt stained).

But as much as there is to do in the day, Shanghai really comes alive when the sun goes down.

Best explored at night is Yu Garden, dating back to the Ming Dynasty in the 16th century.

The bright red traditional pavilions transported me back hundreds of years, and this was only amplified by the many tourists dressed up in authentic hanfu clothing.

Its hourly light shows bring it back into the 21st century, but even that doesn’t detract from the history.

You can enjoy those same neon lights on Nanjing Road, the Oxford Circus of Shanghai, where shops entice you with 10ft clam sculptures and smoke-breathing dragons.

Head to Fuxing Road and you’ll be spoilt for choice for award-winning bars.

Hidden speakeasy Speak Low is credited with putting Shanghai on the map when it comes to its mixology scene, while Bar Leone (sister to the World’s Best Bar 2026 in Hong Kong) is a must.

Just make sure you get there early to grab a seat at the bar. I’d recommend the deliciously fresh Il Cacciatore, expertly made up of gin, cherry tomato and basil.

After the shopping, the eating and the history, my 20,000-step sore feet were ready for rest.

And a stay on The Bund waterfront promenade is a must when in Shanghai.

Nicknamed the Golden Mile, there is no where better for seeing the famous skyline at night, from the pink-lit Oriental Pearl Tower to Shanghai Tower, once the world’s tallest building.

I highly recommend Hotel Indigo, which is not only Westerner-friendly (some resorts don’t accept foreign tourists) but the rooms come with a spectacular view, too.

Along with two restaurants, a rooftop bar and glass-walled indoor pool, it’s right by the cruise port, where you can catch the metropolitan views by boat.

My room was kitted out with everything I needed, from local teas and snacks to comfy beds and fleecy dressing gowns to wrap up in after a very, very long day.

So after a week of towering skylines, decadent food and thousands of years of history in the Magic City? I wasn’t yet ready to disappear.