IT’S not every day that a leash is fastened around your waist and a dog takes YOU for a walk.
However, that’s exactly what occurs in the lesser-known destination of Alta, located in northern Norway.
The hidden gem of Alta in Norway offers a chance to witness the Northern Lights.
The snow-laden city of Alta is home to only 15,000 residents and is emerging as a popular destination.
The backdrop is a wintry arctic pine forest, the activity involves guided snowshoeing, and the dog in question is an Alaskan husky named Bruce.
I had intended to take HIM for a walk — he was accompanying our group to help carry supplies on a sled — but since Bruce is stronger than me, it turned out to be the other way around. So he leads, and I follow, relishing the novelty of the experience.
Despite having a fjord named after it, not many people are aware of the small Norwegian city of Alta, which has a population of 15,000. Nevertheless, it has been quietly establishing itself as an alternative winter wilderness destination.
Does it provide thrilling activities? Absolutely, including husky adventures.
What about cultural experiences? Yes, it boasts a museum and the remarkable Northern Lights Cathedral.
Speaking of which, is Alta a good spot for viewing the aurora borealis?
In fact, it’s one of the best places in the region, thanks to its geographical position.
I’ve booked a three-night stay with the tour operator Best Served Scandinavia, whose itineraries maximize the chances of witnessing the lights while enjoying other activities.
For now, though, I’m sticking with husky Bruce.
He leads me to a frozen lake where my snowshoes and leash are taken off, and our focus shifts to ice fishing, which involves drilling holes through the meter-thick ice, casting lines, and waiting patiently.
Snow gently falls as our group of four relaxes on reindeer rugs, rods in hand.
There’s much discussion about what to do if anyone catches something — prepare it for lunch or release it — when suddenly I feel a tug.
My heart races and my palms grow clammy — despite the cold — as I reel it in. What’s on the end of the line? Just the maggots I had used as bait.
Instead, our guide Kalle prepares salmon and vegetables over an open fire in a lavvu, a tent traditionally used by Norway’s indigenous Sami reindeer herders.
Everything is delicious.
My base is the Scandic hotel, which features a large sauna to warm up in, serves excellent Scandinavian-style breakfasts — think herring, gravlax, and nutty breads — and offers rooms with views of Alta’s cathedral.
Its stunning swirling design, inspired by the Northern Lights, is equally impressive inside — particularly the harp.
The final activity of my adventure was a reindeer-led sleigh ride through the snow.
SHOOTING STAR
The Northern Lights are a magnificent yet elusive natural phenomenon because their visibility depends on the weather — if it’s too cloudy or too bright, they won’t be seen.
That evening, I joined a Hunting the Northern Lights expedition, although what we were truly doing was searching for clear skies.
We drove away from light towards the deep darkness and, after traveling 27 miles northeast, we struck gold.
Everyone hurried out of the van to gaze at faint green arcs stretching across the sky. It was a decent, albeit not spectacular, aurora sighting due to a slightly hazy atmosphere.
There will be more opportunities. One morning, I hiked up Komsa Mountain, a 45-minute trek each way, to take in the view of Alta’s fjord, which served as a naval base during World War Two.
It was near this site that the Allies first detected the German battleship, Bismarck.
I also tried “mushing” — guiding the eight-member team of huskies pulling my sled.
Additionally, I visited the bar at Alta’s Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel, where everything is carved from ice, including the glasses.
Their signature shot is electric blue, infused with vodka, and goes down smoothly.
Finally, it’s the last night and the concluding activity — a reindeer sleigh ride led by Espen, a native Sami. The stars are shining, and the clouds are few. Will we see the aurora? “I’m hopeful,” he says.
The only sound is my reindeer, Muzet, prancing through the snow towards a clearing. I look up and gasp.
In addition to a bright green band high in the sky, there are emerald streaks fountaining from the horizon. And then, I catch sight of a shooting
