AS the glass lift descended the cliff face, green umbrella pines gave way to craggy sandstone before the epic golden sands of Praia da Falesia were revealed.
My friend Rosie and I were in awe.


“This place is stunning”, was our first impression — and it was one that held true throughout our three-day autumn sunshine break at the 5H Pine Cliffs Resort on Portugal’s .
From the bottom of the lift, we strolled down the boardwalk to beach restaurant Maré, which serves the freshest seafood.
As we enjoyed shrimp mango tacos and spritz cocktails, then chocolate ice cream, we deliberated over which sunloungers on the private beach we should aim for the next morning.
Despite our early-morning flight, the quick transfer meant we were in the mood for exploring and after lunch, we got back in the lift to head back up to the resort and get our bearings.
Across the 178-acre estate there are options for every budget or group size, from apartments and suites to villas and townhouses. But our home for the weekend was the resort’s original focal point, the 217-room Pine Cliffs Hotel.
Strolling from the beach to the hotel we passed under the many pines that shade the cobblestone walkways and gardens and give the resort its name.
The clifftop hotel, unlike the resort’s newer residential zones, has a traditional style. Terracotta floors, hand-painted ceramic tiles and whitewashed archways give way to leafy courtyards, as Moorish-style architecture pays homage to the region’s historic Arabic influences.
It’s a theme that continues into the hotel’s bedrooms. The beds have bespoke headboards featuring more of those hand-painted tiles, in elegant constrast to the rooms’ calm, white walls and all the mod cons you could wish for.


Guests can join a free Tiles Tour to learn more about decorative tiles, or azulejos, in the hotel and grounds.
Once you’ve soaked up the back stories, about how this traditional art has survived earthquakes and invaders down the centuries, you head off for a workshop to design your own creations.
Armed with a blank tile, fine brushes and traditional mineral paints, you learn the technique of glazing from scratch.
Your work of art is then fired for you to safely pack into your suitcase.
Meanwhile, across the resort’s grounds, sport is also front and centre.
A scenic nine-hole golf course hugs the cliff edge and features the hair-raising Devil’s Parlour hole, where players must drive a ball straight over a deep ravine.
Then there’s the Tennis and Padel Academy. We had a fantastic time here, being taught the basics of Padel on one of the resort’s beautiful courts — even though our backhands didn’t quite match the facility.
If you work up a thirst, and appetite, then good: the resort has 18 fabulous bars and restaurants.
The Mirador Champagne Bar was the perfect place for us to sit and watch the sunset with a glass of fizz and bowls of salty snacks before dinner.
We kicked off our first evening at lively steakhouse Piri Piri, one of top spots for meat lovers, with gourmet cuts from all corners of the globe.


We enjoyed fillet steak and fresh lobster salad with local wines and ended the night with a glass of Amarguinha, a local almond liqueur which was dangerously delicious.
On our second night, we went to seafood restaurant O’Pescador, where guests choose their catch from the tank before having it grilled on the barbecue. For lunch, we loved the Corda Cafe and healthfood spot Zest, where we mixed it up with salads, wraps and pizzas.
Day two was all about recharging in the resort’s Serenity Spa where we were treated to massages before sampling the outdoor Jacuzzi and the saunas, ice pool and steam rooms in the spa itself.


The resort’s health club also features two big gyms, a Pilates studio and an indoor pool.
If you prefer unwinding under the sun, the resort has seven outdoor pools.
There is no adult-only pool but those after a quiet spot should visit the pools near the spa, one of which has a swanky swim-up bar.
Families will find the best areas for kids in the Porto Pirata Children’s Village — the biggest kids’ club in the region.
If you fancy a spot of shopping, there’s a strip of boutiques selling handmade gifts and jewellery or, in the hotel lobby, there are several high-end shops.
Outside the resort, the coastal city of is just a 15-minute drive away, with a huge selection of bars, restaurants and nightclubs as well as a pretty old quarter.
But with their clifftop sundowners, world-class dining and golden sands, we were not in a rush to leave our hotel and its glorious grounds and beach.
GO: ALGARVE
GETTING THERE: easyJet flies to Faro from Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Newcastle, Liverpool, Birmingham and Bristol, with fares this month from £19.99 one way.
See easyJet.com .
STAYING THERE: Deluxe double rooms with balconies cost from £208 per night this month, with breakfast.
See pinecliffs.com .