THERE are three phrases that strike fear into every beauty lover’s heart: out of stock, discontinued and, perhaps the worst, reformulated.
Yet over the last 12 months, many iconic products have been updated – and if online reviews are to be believed, the changes are not always for the better.
Our Beauty Editor Tara Ledden tested new versions of 10 ‘holy grail’ beauty products Credit: Getty
Sometimes formulation changes are unavoidable due to ingredient bans or lack of supplies, while consumer feedback is another trigger.
But although brands often claim the changes are for the better, many loyal consumers disagree, with social media accounts littered with complaints about products that no longer perform as well.
To see how the new versions of several recently reformulated classics measure up to their originals, Beauty Editor Tara Ledden put them to the test…
Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, £47, Boots
The original Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation was beloved by its fans Credit: Supplied
But fans can breathe a sigh of relief – as the reformulated version is just as beautiful Credit: Supplied
THE original was a artist’s staple, with A-list fans including , and .
So this update – where banned silicones have been swapped for the ingredients niacinamide and glycerin – had a lot to live up to.
Luckily, fans can breathe a sigh of relief, as it applies just as beautifully as the original formula, albeit with a slightly more fluid consistency.
While the finish looks nearly identical, the shades, which have been extended from 26 to 44 options, are completely different.
The newer versions tend to look a lot warmer, so it’s worth going in-store to get re-matched rather than attempting to do it online.
As far as reformulations go, this is as good as it gets.
The Inkey List Oat Balm Cleanser, £15, Boots
Customers complained about the old version of the cleanser being hard to dispense and a grainy formula Credit: Supplied
The new version has had a marginal price increase… but it’s well worth it Credit: Supplied
IT’S not just high-end brands that have to reformulate products – this hit high street cleanser was recently overhauled in response to complaints about the rigid tube, which made the balm hard to dispense, and an unstable formula which could feel grainy.
The brand tried 100 different iterations and upped the concentration of hero ingredient oat kernel oil from 3 per cent to 5 per cent before coming up with this end result.
The update glides across skin more easily and doesn’t leave any residue, which was something I didn’t like about the previous version.
The softer, more flexible tube is also an improvement, meaning the marginal price increase from £12 to £15 is well worth it.
Estée Lauder Double Wear Foundation, £39.50
The old version was VERY matte and wasn’t great for those with dry skin Credit: Supplied
The new version is not as drying due to a thicker formulation and has less coverage Credit: Supplied
THE original was a Marmite foundation. While it was high coverage and extremely matte, it wasn’t a great fit for dry skin types.
But as someone with a long history of oily skin and acne, it has long been a staple in my routine. The new version has taken seven years, 100 scientists and 300 formulations to perfect and is slightly thicker, like a serum.
This makes it easier to blend across skin, while it’s not as drying thanks to a mix of glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
The downside is that it’s not as high coverage, but the new version is longer wearing, promising to stay put for 36 hours compared to 24 previously. That’s much longer than you’d realistically expect to wear make-up, though.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream, £54
The old Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream felt a little bit oily Credit: Supplied
The reformulated Magic Cream has been transformed into a potent anti-ageing treatment Credit: Supplied
WHILE the packaging and consistency of the product inside may look the same, after using it I’d say the new cream feels less oily.
It also sinks into your skin a little faster, but the difference in texture is marginal, with the update staying true to the thick, unctuous cream that doubles up as a great primer for make-up.
No longer just a rich , the celeb favourite has transformed into a potent anti-ageing treatment thanks to the addition of over 100 peptides and hydrating ingredient Ectoin, which are clinically proven to reverse 10 key signs of ageing.
This makes the lofty price tag slightly more justifiable.
Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray, £29.50
A high-profile fallout led to Urban Decay’s flagship product being re-created Credit: Supplied
If you gave the new version to fans, they wouldn’t be able to tell the difference Credit: Supplied
A HIGH-profile fallout with the original creators of flagship product late last year – a 15-year-long partnership with patent-holders Skindinavia was terminated by the L’Oreal-owned brand – led to the launch of a replacement created in-house.
This took four years of research and over 100 formulations to perfect.
Both lock make-up in place making it water-proof, sweat resistant and transfer-proof, while they also utilise cooling agents to soothe skin on contact.
This helps prevent make-up from melting in warm environments.
If you gave them to me unlabelled, I’m not convinced I’d be able to tell the difference.
Fans of the original can still buy it directly from Skindinavia at beautylish.com .
Olaplex No.3 Plus Complete Repair Treatment, £32
The old version was reformulated after Lilal – a fragrance compound – was banned by the EU Credit: Supplied
The latest version is definitely the best yet and a clear upgrade on the original Credit: Supplied
THIS is the second upgrade in four years, hot on the heels of a reformulation that removed Lilal – a fragrance compound banned by the EU – in 2022.
The latest version is definitely the best yet and a clear upgrade on the original, thanks to the addition of faster-acting conditioning ingredients that leave feeling softer and more manageable, right from the first use.
The update also repairs the outer cuticle as well as internal hair bonds, while the original focused solely on the latter.
The treatment time has been drastically reduced too, from 10-20 minutes to just three minutes, which makes it much more efficient and easier to slot into my shower routine.
NARS Natural Matte Longwear Foundation, £43.50
The old formula was incredibly thick Credit: Supplied
The new one has a thinner consistency which is more lightweight on skin Credit: Supplied
have done fans of this product’s predecessor, Nars Soft Matte Complete Foundation, £35, a huge favour by calling these two completely different names and housing them in different packaging.
This means you won’t be duped into accidentally repurchasing the changed product.
The old formula was incredibly thick, whereas the new one has a thinner consistency which is more lightweight on skin.
Both blur pores and imperfections while delivering a soft-matte finish, but the update leaves skin looking more life-like, rather than dull or cakey.
I’ve also found the new version controls oil better than its predecessor, making it a great choice for days when you need your make-up to last.
Clarins Double Serum, £65
The Clarins Double Serum has been re-formulated NINE times Credit: Supplied
This update comes with advanced anti-ageing claims and a lighter formula that sinks in faster Credit: Supplied
NOW on its ninth reformulation in the product’s 40-year history, making it the most frequently updated formula on this list.
The most recent adaptation contains 22 plant extracts – one more than the previous iteration, that’s been on shelves since 2017.
The texture remains the same, as does the dual-chamber packaging, which separates the water-based and oil-based serums, and both generations have an adjustable dial, allowing users to customise the ratio of each that is dispensed.
This update comes with advanced anti-ageing claims and a lighter formula that sinks in faster, so the changes feel proactive, rather than a response to changing regulations or customer needs.
Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, £38.50
Laura Mercier reformulated its beloved loose setting powder after fans wanted a ‘cleaner’ version Credit: Supplied
The recent update can make skin look paper-white in flash photography – I looked like a ghost when trying it Credit: Supplied
IN A rare-but-welcome twist, the MUA-loved brand opted to keep the original, while also launching a modern, talc-free version: Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder Ultra-Blur, £44, after customer demands for a ‘cleaner’ update.
They perform completely differently, as talc has superior oil-absorbing abilities, so greasy skin types will prefer the original.
The talc-free version relies on a combination of mica, cornstarch and silica to keep shine at bay, and in turn delivers an air-brushed, pore-blurring finish the original can’t achieve.
The update also includes hyaluronic acid to avoid drying skin out, making it a great choice for those with dry or mature complexions.
A final, notable difference: the recent update can make skin look paper-white in flash photography – I looked like a ghost when trying it – thanks to its silica content, making the former best for brides.
Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment Nourishing Glaze, £20
Hailey Bieber’s Rhode was left with little choice to update the old version of their lip treatment due to a ‘bumpy’ texture Credit: Supplied
The updated version certainly feels more hydrating and is easier to apply Credit: Supplied
RARELY does a brand reformulate a product so quickly after launch, but after users complained of a beady, gritty texture – videos even showed customers heating the product in hot water to combat the lumpy texture – was left with little choice but to update.
The major change sees the shea butter ingredient swapped from a solid format to a liquid, which helps ensure it remains smooth.
The updated version certainly feels more hydrating and is easier to apply, without the gloopiness of the original.
The packaging has changed too, from a matte plastic tube to a high-shine, glossy one, which stays cleaner in my handbag.
Eze Chidiebere Paul
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