HIGH-street shops are full of different shampoos and conditioners, all claiming to have different effects on your hair, and all at different price points.
It can be overwhelming to know what to buy, even more so when faced with hundreds of obscure-sounding ingredients on the label.
Annabelle Taurua has revealed which products are right for your hairCredit: Getty
Luckily, Annabelle Taurua, beauty and hair expert at Fresha , has delved into some of the ingredients to look out for when you’re next on the hunt for a new haircare product.
Silicones
Silicones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are widely used in conditioners and styling products to smooth the hair cuticle and reduce frizz.
Silicones form a very thin, flexible film over the hair shaft,” Annabelle says. “That film smooths down raised cuticles, reduces friction between strands and helps reflect light, which is why your hair immediately feels softer and looks shinier after use. They’re widely used because they’re very effective at controlling frizz and protecting hair from humidity.”
Although silicones themselves aren’t damaging, too much product buildup is where people run into issues.
She says: “Certain heavier or non-water-soluble silicones aren’t easily removed by gentle cleansers. If you repeatedly layer them without occasionally using a clarifying shampoo, they can build up on the surface of the hair.
“On fine, low-porosity or very straight hair, that buildup may leave strands feeling coated, flat or less responsive to moisture treatments.
“It doesn’t mean silicones are bad. It just means they require balance. For some hair types, especially coarse, curly or highly porous hair, they can be incredibly beneficial. For others, it’s about using them strategically and making sure you’re cleansing thoroughly enough to prevent residue.”
Sulphates
Sulphates such as sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate are surfactants commonly used in shampoos to lift away oil, sweat, pollution and product residue from the scalp and hair.
They’re responsible for the rich lather many people associate with a “deep clean”.
“Sulphates are very efficient cleansing agents,” Annabelle explains. “They bind to oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away with water. From a formulation perspective, they’re reliable, affordable, and extremely good at removing buildup.”
“For someone with an oily scalp or heavy product use, that level of cleansing is beneficial. But for people with curly, coily, colour-treated or already dry hair, frequent use may leave strands feeling rough, tight or more prone to frizz.”
For those who find traditional sulphates too stripping, Annabelle suggests looking for milder alternatives such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, coco-glucoside or decyl glucoside. These surfactants still cleanse effectively but are generally considered gentler on the scalp and hair.
“It’s not about sulphates being ‘bad’,” she added. “It’s about matching the cleanser strength to your scalp type, how often you wash and how much styling product you use. Someone who washes once a week may need a stronger cleanse than someone washing every other day.”
Alcohols
The word “alcohol” on an ingredient list often causes alarm, but in cosmetic chemistry, it refers to a broad group of compounds that behave very differently depending on their structure and concentration.
Short-chain alcohols such as ethanol, alcohol denat, and isopropyl alcohol are lightweight and fast-evaporating.
They’re commonly used in styling products and lightweight serums because they help formulas dry quickly and feel less heavy.
“In higher concentrations, particularly in leave-in products, these types of alcohol can contribute to dryness because they evaporate rapidly and may reduce moisture levels in the hair.
“For someone with already dry or fragile hair, frequent exposure can make strands feel more brittle over time.”
However, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol function very differently.
These ingredients are derived from natural fats and oils and are used as emollients and stabilisers in conditioners and creams.
“Fatty alcohols actually help soften and smooth the hair cuticle. They improve slip, reduce static, and support moisture retention. They’re an important part of many conditioning formulas and are generally beneficial for most hair types.”
Common mistakes that are destroying your healthy hair
Haircare experts at Tangle Teezer shared their insight.
Not brushing correctly
Brushing your hair regularly is one of the most basic, yet effective, ways to keep it looking healthy and maintained. However, mechanical damage from your hairbrush and brushing your hair the wrong way may be doing more harm than good.
To avoid excessive pulling and breakage to the hair, the best way to brush your hair is to start at the ends and work your way up to the roots. It’s also important to choose a brush that is gentle on hair, but tough on tangles.
Not using the right hairbrush for hair type
Selecting the right hairbrush for your hair type is essential to maintain healthy hair. Different hairbrushes are designed to work with different hair types, textures, and lengths.
Taking the time to pick out your perfect brush is the little thing you can do to make a big difference when it comes to your hair health.
For fine hair, a brush with soft-flex teeth is recommended as it can de-tangle hair without pulling or damaging fragile strands. For
straight to wavy hair, we recommend our de-tangling brushes with regular-flex teeth, and for thick or curly hair, we recommend our firm-flex teeth and our brushes with a larger paddle size. If you have tight curls and coils, a wide-tooth comb maybe a better match for your hair.
Not brushing treatments through in the shower
Using treatments is a great way to keep your hair hydrated and healthy. Whether you’re using a deep conditioner or treatment masque, it’s important to brush it through from the mid-lengths through to the ends of the hair.
This will make sure it is evenly distributed through the hair so the treatment can nourish all strands. When brushing through your treatment, make sure you use a brush that is as gentle on wet hair as it is dry.
The importance of scalp care in healthy hair
Healthy hair starts at the root so bring a scalp brush into your hair care routine has many benefits, as it promotes blood circulation.
A scalp brush can help with dandruff, by removing the build-up of old skin cells and products that can lead to an itchy, flaky scalp. Not only do scalp brushes remove the leftover products that can lead to dandruff, but they can also help apply products – from oil treatments to anti-dandruff shampoos – deeper into your scalp. Also, massaging your
scalp stimulates pressure points and increases blood circulation, unblocking hair follicles, allowing your hair to grow stronger and healthier.
Fragrance
Fragrance is one of the most common causes of cosmetic contact dermatitis. On ingredient lists it usually appears as “parfum” or “aroma”, which can represent a blend of multiple scent chemicals under one term.
Some fragrance components, including limonene, linalool, citronellol and geraniol, must be listed separately when present above certain levels, as they are recognised allergens.
“Synthetic fragrance isn’t automatically harmful, but it’s a frequent trigger for irritation,” Annabelle says. “If you consistently experience itching, burning or flaking after washing your hair, fragrance is one of the first ingredients worth removing to see if symptoms improve.”
Hair type matters more than price
“There’s no universal ‘bad’ ingredient,” Annabelle notes. “What works beautifully for one person can feel completely wrong for someone else. Haircare is about compatibility, not price point.”
Curly and coily hair types tend to be naturally drier, whereas fine or very straight hair is often more easily weighed down.
High-porosity hair may benefit from ingredients that help smooth and temporarily reinforce the cuticle.
Low-porosity hair, however, can struggle with heavy layering and may require occasional clarifying to prevent buildup.
Ultimately, Annabelle stresses that reading labels and observing how your own hair responds over time is more effective than following blanket rules.
“Instead of asking whether an ingredient is good or bad, the better question is: is it right for my hair?”
Eze Chidiebere Paul
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