LOATING on my back along the narrow channel fringed by mangroves, the gentle current pushes me onwards in the warm, clear waters.
This incredible natural lazy river just south of Tulum represents everything that is magical about the raw beauty of .
Swim with sea turtles in Cancun’s crystal watersCredit: Supplied
Enjoy a thrilling Mayan show at Essence at The Fives Beach hotelCredit: Supplied
The Muyil Lagoon — and the canals carved by the ancient — are the ultimate in relaxation.
There’s a serene calm as you glide along with water so sparkling and clear you can easily see the sandy bottom and spot small fish darting through the reeds.
On all sides, you’re surrounded by dense vegetation and the roots of red mangroves and beautiful orchids.
Deep in the heart of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, our tour had started at the Muyil ruins.
Quieter than the archaeological wonders at Chichen Itza or Tulum, it still has its stepped temple pyramids shaded by ancient trees and forests.
From there it was a thrilling boat ride over the Muyil and Chunyaxche freshwater lagoons before we were dropped off for our 40-minute lazy river ride.
Clambering out and along a boardwalk through the mangroves to return back to our boat, I was grateful for the water shoes we’d donned before our swim as the bleached wood was scorching hot in the sunshine.
We’d certainly earned a sunset cocktail back at our hotel — the TRS Yucatan, an all- inclusive 5H adults-only paradise in the heart of the Riviera Maya.
My ultra-modern room came complete with a minibar you can personalise with your favourite drinks, as well as a shaded terrace with plunge and hanging day bed.
But the lure of the multi-level infinity pool overlooking the beach was an easy way to tempt me away from my room, followed closely by the Ibiza vibes of the Helios beach club right on the soft sands of its private beach.
The TRS Yucatan is part of the Grand Palladium Resort and Spa and you can use the facilities across its nearby sister , which tots up to a total of eight pools, 21 and 31 bars.
But the TRS Yucatan is the more premium of the hotels in the complex — top-shelf spirits and quality wines in the bars, and a butler caring for your every need in each of the small, luxury blocks.
The peaceful adult pool at Essence at The FivesCredit: Supplied
The food is elevated too and you’d be missing out if you didn’t indulge at the El Gaucho Argentinian steak house or one of the other five restaurants serving Mexican, French, Italian and cuisine exclusive to the adult-only hotel.
And while the lure of the multiple pools and 24/7 dining might mean you’re keen to stay put, it would be a shame to miss out on more natural wonders on the doorstep.
Just a ten-minute drive from the hotel is Akumal Bay, where snorkelling tours from the sandy shores reward you with multiple sightings of loggerhead and green turtles.
Fly direct to enjoy Cancun
WITH Virgin Atlantic re-introducing new direct winter-season flights into Cancun on Mexico’s Caribbean coast in 2025, it has never been easier to enjoy a break here.
This year, direct flights from Heathrow will run on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays from October 18 running through until April 18, 2027 with fares from just £703 return.
And with it comes the chance to enjoy sun-soaked breaks through Virgin Holidays.
As well as sampling the delights of the TRS Yucatan on my trip, we also had the chance to stay at Essence at The Fives Beach, just north of downtown Playa del Carmen, just a 45-minute transfer from Cancun airport.
This was laid-back luxury at its finest, an upscale haven within The Fives Beach Hotel & Residences that has a “boutique” feel while still allowing you to enjoy all the facilities at this extensive resort. The spacious, modern suites come with one, two or three bedrooms as well as full kitchens and living areas, perfect for families or multi-generational stays.
And what I loved about the whole resort was its connection to nature. You’ll walk to the beach via a collection of wooden walkways that wind through preserved mangroves and there’s even a natural cenote in the resort grounds.
Local wildlife includes iguanas and coatis – a cute mammal that’s a mix between a raccoon and a lemur with a long, upright tail.
With 15 restaurants and bars, and food ranging from modern Mexican to Thai and French cuisines, you are spoilt for choice.
The resort also pleases all ages, with excellent kids’ clubs featuring sensory rooms and activities, and adult-only pools for peace and quiet.
Grazing on the sea grasses in the calm bay and feeding among the reefs, the turtles are often joined by stingrays and a kaleidoscope of smaller fish.
Book as early in the day as you can, to beat the crowds and enjoy calmer waters.
We combined our early-morning snorkel with another unique Mayan natural wonder — a swim through one of the thousands of cenotes across the Riviera Maya.
These natural sinkholes occur when the limestone bedrock above underground rivers collapses, exposing the water below.
The TRS Yucatan, an all- inclusive 5* adults-only paradise in the heart of the Riviera MayaCredit: Supplied
Sprawling infinity pool at TRS Yucatan hotelCredit: Supplied
While some are large openings you can easily access, others involve into underground caverns that in some cases can be vast.
We swam through a complex of incredible caves at Yaxmulito, a bit of a hidden gem and far less busy than some of the other popular cenotes in the area.
Its remote location means a host of wildlife to spot in the dense jungle, from spider monkeys and marmots in the trees to iguanas on the ground and even bats in the caves!
With a local guide to help us navigate through the maze of caverns, we swam through caves that were lit cleverly to illuminate the ancient limestone above us — squeezing between stalactite limestone columns that have formed over more than 10,000 years into tiny, unlit caverns.
While magical, some of the spaces were probably not ideal for anyone who is prone to claustrophobia.
Clambering out, we topped off a day in this natural paradise with a lunch of slow-cooked chicken marinated in spices and a hearty pork stew, served up with red rice, refried beans and handmade tortillas alongside delicious salads and salsas.
Served up in a rustic, open-air, thatched-roof building in the stunning jungle location and with a powerful margarita from the bar to wash it down, days don’t come much better.
The Sun’s Lisa in MexicoCredit: Supplied GO: Cancun
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the 4.5H Essence at the Fives Beach, Playa del Carmen is from £1,606pp including Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow to Cancun on February 7, 2027. Five nights’ all-inclusive at the 5H TRS Yucatan on the Riviera Maya is from £1,899pp including Virgin Atlantic flights.
Eze Chidiebere Paul
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